At a simple glance, one might get slightly confused with this little eatery that is simply known as Meat & Sea. The restaurant that takes its name from the wordplay on the surf and turf, but actually focuses on traditional homestyle Thai cooking, the kind that you would find in actual Thai homes.
Meat & Sea: Kanchanaburi and Isaan Cuisine
The simple eatery is headed by chef Chutikan “Amy” Parnphan who hails from Kanchanaburi, west of Bangkok, who specialises in Kanchanaburi and Isaan cuisine. Her dishes are the kind you will find at home, served without a bulking up on sugar and salt, but strong flavours that comes from meticulous preparations. One thing to note, they do not use any MSG in their cooking, something they firmly believe in, which really means that more effort is taken to bring out flavours in dishes.
“I personally handpick all the ingredients use to make sure the quality is good. Even when we use limes, we squeeze them in a way to not damage the pulp. This way there is no bitterness when you use it. Most places will not do this which can result in the limes being bitter. I know this takes more time to do, but I will not compromise.” — Chutikan “Amy” Parnphan, Executive Chef of Meat & Sea.
Grilled Pork Skewers / Moo Ping หมูปิ้ง
One of the most iconic Bangkok street foods, the Moo Ping is one of the most well-known dishes. The moo ping is marinated in a variety of ways, with coriander root and garlic being predominant flavours, with coconut milk as a tenderiser. The ones here had the right fat to meat ratio and was deliciously spongy to the bite. We highly recommend this.
Grilled Pork Neck / Kor Moo Yang คอหมูย่าง
Another staple in grilled Thai cuisine, the grilled pork neck is one of those dishes that seems simple but takes a bit more to create well. The right amount of char is important, without overcooking the meat. The ones here are pretty nice and is great for sharing.
Isaan Papaya & Cured Baby Crab Salad / Som Tam Isan ส้มตำอีสาน
One of the most authentic dishes on the menu, the flavours of the som tam is not for everyone. Strong, herbaceous and tart, the salad comes complete with cured raw baby crabs, with shreds of raw papaya. The very traditional dish is served with khanom chin (ขนมจีน), a type of fermented rice noodles that look like rice vermicelli.
Seafood Tom Yum / Tom Yum Talay ต้มยำทะเล
The seafood tom yum is a light broth, not the creamy versions that some might be accustomed to. The “yum” is actually the spices used to make the soup, which may differ from state to state, and household to household. A lighter version that you would find compared to the ones outside.
Chicken Tom Kha / Tom Kha Gai ต้มข่าไก่
One of their more outstanding dishes, the tom kha gai is cooked in a galangal soup base, with chunks of tender chicken and oyster mushroom, but what really elevated this version were the roasted dried chillies which adds a layer of complexity to this very successful dish.
Stir Fried Morning Glory / Pad Pak Boong ผัดผักบุ้งไฟแดง่
A simple vegetable dish, the Thai preparation uses oyster sauce and garlic as its base for the morning glory stems, also known as pak boong in Thai or kangkong in Malay, this southern Thai style dish packs loads of flavour for something so light.
Green Curry Chicken / Kaeng Khiao Wan แกงเขียวหวานไก่
One of the most well-known Thai dishes, the green curry was milder than you would expect, which is cleaner on the palate and lighter than the variety you would find elsewhere. The flavours are balanced and works well with rice.
Red Curry Beef / Kaeng Phet แกงเผ็ดเนื้อ
One of the more unique curries, the red beef curry here isn’t what you would expect. Not overly creamy or sweet, the spice heavy curry with tinge of bitterness is akin to a dry curry more than anything, but the flavours are both complex with a considerable heat. The layers of flavours is very unique, with sweet, savoury and bitter notes, coming from the small round Thai eggplant known as ma keua praw (มะเขือเปราะ) in Thai.
Braised Pork Leg Rice / Khao Kha Moo ข้าวขาหมู
One of their star dishes, the khao kha moo is full of deep umami flavour, with pronounced star anise and soy permeating through the tender cooked pork leg. The dish comes with preserved mustard greens, kalian, eggs and mushrooms for another layer of umami. Great for sharing as well having it on its own.
Grilled Thai-Style Seabass / Pla Kaphng Khaw ปลากะพงขาว
A common Thai style of grilled in banana leaf, served with a side of chilli. Cooked well and one makes a great sharing dish with rice.
Lecreuset Glass Noodles with Prawns / Goong Ob Woonsen กุ้งอบวุ้นเ
Glass noodles prawns are also another staple in Thai cuisine, usually with predominant flavours of black pepper, coriander root and coriander leaves. The simple yet effective dish is cooked in lecreuset pots, ensuring equal heat, but also very beautifully presented.
The Meat & Sea Experience
Meat & Sea is one of those no-fuss no-frills restaurants serving authentic Thai cuisine, with flavours that are familiar to Thai natives. If you’re looking for something a little cleaner and really would like to know how the Thai eat at home, this is just the place.
Meat & Sea KL
1 Plaza Prismaville,
Desa Sri Hartamas,
50480 Kuala Lumpur
+6012 800 4833
Tuesday to Sundays, 11.00 am to 6.00 pm
| PHOTOGRAPHY: NICHOLAS NG | WEBSITE: MEAT & SEA |