Sake is one of the fastest growing category which is considered a brewed alcohol, and unlike beer, spirits or wine, sake doesn’t go through distillation. We speak to Malaysia’s first Master Sake Sommelier, Danny Leong, to find out more about everything you’ve always wanted to know about sakes.
Can you tell us a bit about yourself and what you do?
My name is Danny Leong and I am the first Master Sake Sommelier in Malaysia awarded by the Sake Sommelier Association (SSA). Besides having certified qualifications from the SSA, I have also completed the Advance Sake Professional Course awarded by the Sake Education Council (SEC) and the Wines and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) in both Level 3 Sake and Wines.
Last year I’ve also completed the Sake Scholar Course as part of my continuing education in sake. My personal motto is “With better knowledge comes better appreciation”. My interest in food and the pairing potential of different beverages led me to sake. Back then, there weren’t many professionals who could answer questions I posed to them when it came to sake. I decided to take up as many professional qualifications in sake as possible, taking me to countries like Japan, Hong Kong and London, UK. Travelling to these countries helped me build up a network of classmates who are sake professionals, educators, and sommeliers in their respective countries. It gave me a lot of insights on how sake is appreciated in different cultures and traditions.
I work closely with the food and beverage industry, helping the restaurant select the appropriate sakes that fit their concept and food profile or even the chef’s style of cooking. My expertise is in pairing sake with non-Japanese cuisines such as French, Italian, and Chinese cuisine, just to name a few, working closely with different Chefs to elevate the dining experience of the guests.
There will be many more sake events this year. I also conduct professional certified sake courses, masterclasses and sake events to help grow the interest in sake in Malaysia. There are not only many sakes lovers out there but also those who are just starting their sake journey and want to learn more.
Can you tell us what a master sake sommelier is?
A sommelier is a trained and knowledgeable professional who has achieved certain certified professional qualifications from accredited organisations such as but not limited to the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS), the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), the Sake Sommelier Association (SSA) just to name a few. Sommeliers normally work in fine dining establishments and the hospitality industry. A good sommelier helps guests with the selection of beverages to enjoy on its own or to pair with dishes they ordered, creating a memorable dining experience. An impeccable knowledge of food, cuisine and service are equally important.
The Master Sake Sommelier qualification is awarded by the Sake Sommelier Association upon passing a rigorous full day exam. It is a Level 4 qualification for experienced professionals who have at least gained the Certified Sake Sommelier qualification or equivalent such as the WSET Level 3 Sake.
How does the polishing rate affect the sake?
To make it easy to understand why rice needs to be polished/milled to make sake, let me use the example of the table rice that we eat. Brown rice is unpolished so 100% of the rice grain remains, minus the outer hull. It retains the protective bran, fibre, protein, minerals, vitamins etc… thus it has a more robust flavour, some consumers like it whilst some don’t.
White rice on the other hand is polished down to the size of 92% on average, meaning 8% of the outer layer is milled away. It generally smells aromatic, tastes sweeter and has a softer texture.
Now coming back to sake, generally, the more a sake rice is polished, the more “refined” the sake taste, sweeter, smoother, more aromatic. Having removed more layers of the rice also means more rice grains will be needed to make the same volume of sake thus increasing the cost of production and ultimately the price of a bottle that consumers pay.
So in general, if you prefer an aromatic, softer, smoother sake with some sweetness, go for a more polished grade of sake such as Junmai Daiginjo grade (polishing ratio 50% or smaller) and be prepared to pay a higher price. On the other hand, if you prefer a fuller bodied sake you can enjoy a Junmai sake with a polishing ratio of between 60% – 80%.
What’s the difference between traditional style sake and modern style sake?
Traditionally sakes are made for the consumption of the local population in a town, city or prefecture in Japan where the sake goes well with the food that the people eat. Scientific breakthroughs in yeast cultivation, improved rice growing methods, brewing techniques and critically the capability of rice polishing machines to mill sake rice to even smaller sizes led to sakes that are more refined and highly aromatic. Nowadays, you will notice more and more sakes being served in wine glasses to enjoy the aromatic profile of the sakes.
What are 3 sakes you recommend for beginners to try?
I would suggest to start with a regular sake (futsushu) that is easily available in supermarkets and retail shops. You will normally find them in big 1.8L bottles that are good value especially when enjoying with a big group. As you familiarise yourself with the taste of a regular sake (futsushu), try a sake that has its rice polished down to 70% (eg. Junmai), 60% (Junmai Ginjo), 50% (Junmai Daiginjo) and notice the differences in flavour and of course the higher price due higher production costs.
Is there a difference between drinking sake and food pairing sake?
In general no, sakes that are good to enjoy on its own can be a good fit with a type of dish and vice versa.
Can you tell us about the versatility with sake?
As most people who have experienced drinking sake will notice, it does not have the high acidity or sourness like a white wine or the robust tannic structure of a full bodied red wine. Sakes are very easy on the palate due to its softer mouthfeel and has a higher umami content among alcoholic beverages making it a good fit with food.
Different types of sakes can be enjoyed at different temperatures (chilled or warmed), as the change in temperature changes the flavour profile of the sake.
What misconceptions about sake do you think that people most commonly have?
A common phrase I hear is, Sake is dangerous as it gets you drunk faster! While it is true that sakes in general have a higher alcohol content of around 15% compared to a full bodied red wine say at 14%, it is the speed of drinking sake that is the issue here. Sakes without the high acidity, a delicate smooth texture and light sweetness makes people gulp down a glass at a much faster rate than say sipping wines!
Another misconception is that sake, shochu and soju are the same. Japanese Sake is a fermented beverage made from rice. Shochu is a Japanese distilled beverage that can use different base ingredients such as barley, sweet potato, rice, brown sugar, etc. to make. Soju on the other hand is a distilled spirit from Korea that is traditionally made from rice but other grains such as wheat, starch or sweet potatoes are also used.