For those familiar with the Kuala Lumpur fine dining scene, the name Sabayon may be quite new, but make no mistake, this restaurant has its deep roots in the history of Kuala Lumpur. The spiritual successor to Swiss cuisine Chalet, Sabayon takes its namesake from their iconic dessert, complete with pomp and circumstance of folk singers. Now in 2020, we take a look at their latest incarnation, serving contemporary European, with a stunning skyline to match.
Sabayon at EQ: Modern European Cuisine
The restaurant itself is located on the 51st floor, with a stunning view overlooking the Kuala Lumpur skyline, and although serving modern European cuisine, tends to lean towards a certain German palate, perhaps a nod to its Swiss fine dining past. The dishes were overall clean and what you’d expect of a fine dining restaurant, but some notable courses were their interestingly titled “seared wagyu tartare” that accompanied the Asparagus Velouté in the 3 Course Menu and the unexpected but deliciously umami take on the oxtail brioche which came with the Black Angus Tenderloin in the 5 course, and also for the careful handling of the Foie Gras on the Al Fresco Menu.
The Sabayon Menu
The Sabayon menu consisted of a 3 Course Menu, 5 Course Menu and an Al Fresco Menu for dining outside. The 3 course is lighter and is a completely different menu from the 5 course, which you can have additionals to your fancy. The Al Fresco Menu is also completely different and is best for a la carte dining.
Sabayon 3 Course Menu
Hand-whipped yuzu butter, olive oil and salted butter
Their signature sourdough comes with each menu, and comes with a selection of 3 condiments, with an extra shard of crispy sourdough as a contrast of texture. The highlight was the yuzu butter.
Seared wagyu tartare and summer truffle
The first course, 3 Course Menu, was a creamy asparagus style soup, with a dollop of ‘seared wagyu tartare’ with slivers of summer black truffle. Why this dish was special was because of its unique take, since tartares are usually raw. The part seared part raw gives the dish an interesting texture. All in all, it ate decent.
Smoked Lamb Chop
Bean cassoulet and thyme jus
Essentially the most theatrical of the dishes, the lamb chops are served smoked in a beautiful cover, releasing aromas of burnt rosemary when lifted. The lamb was served perfectly pink, with the right juiciness and tenderness, and most importantly not dry. The bean cassoulet was more of an homage to a traditional serving with green beans instead of haricots. Overall still a beautifully flavoured cut.
Chocolate soil and raspberry gel
The beautiful raspberry foam dessert is flavoured with raspberry and had the consistency of a flan. The dish was a simple ending for the 3 course, especially for the perfect pairing of chocolate and raspberry.
Sabayon 5 Course Menu
Leek fondue and tropical caviar
The first course was a Hokkaido scallop in a gentle but fragrant leek fondue. The dish had elements of the perfectly seared scallop, creamy texture from the fondue and bursts of briny umami from the tropical caviar.
Braised mushrooms and seared foie gras
A dish that seemed simple, the chicken stocked pot-au-feu was a burst of umami, from the green umami of the morels, with the fattiness and flavour that you can only get from a foie gras.
Sous-Vide Skrei Cod
Miso beurre blanc and salmon roe
The thick slice of cod was seasoned well and cooked to the right tenderness, with the miso beurre blanc adding a complementing sauce. The dollops of salmon roe added a beautiful burst of briny umami, balancing the dish out well.
Black Angus Tenderloin
Oxtail brioche and artisan carrots
Although the black angus tenderloin was cooked perfectly well, medium rare, it was the rectangle of the oxtail brioche that elevated the dish to a new level. The sweet and seared brioche had the most intensely savoury and flavourful pulled oxtail – easily one of the tastiest sandwiches we have tasted – really pulling the dish altogether well.
Lime foam, milk olive oil and buttermilk sorbet
Another dish that was unexpectedly tasty was the beautifully plated dessert, in yellow and white. The lime foam was sweet sharp and zesty, with the buttermilk sorbet added a complexity of sour and creamy textures. A delightful and unexpected dish.
Masi Masianco, Pinot Grigio, 2018
The pinot grigio was easy to drink and paired well with the soups and foie gras dishes.
Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuisse, Chardonnay, 2017
Fruity and lemony, the chardonnay matched the fish course well.
Penfolds Bin 28, Shiraz, 2017
One of their signatures, the Bin 28 was medium bodied and did decent with the lamb and wagyu.
Barons de Rothschilde Brut, Champagne
One of the highlights of the wines, the elegant champagne helped break up the meal, serving post soups and pre-meats. The brut champagne was easy on the palate.
One of their signature cocktails, the smoked negroni was a traditional take with elements of burnt rosemary as a bouquet.
Sabayon Al Fresco Menu
Pan seared foie gras, mille feuille and fig
The generous portion foie gras is part of the al fresco menu, and served simply with pan fried with fig and foie jus. The simple but well executed foie was plump and crusted well, which worked well with the flavour of the fig.
Salmon and Tuna Kimchi Tartare
Salmon, tuna, kimchi
The large portion of salmon and tuna were great for sharing as the pickling was spicy and pungent. Makes a great little snack.
Merguez sausage and mash
The Moroccan spiced lamb sausage was a large portion which made a good snack for sharing, and is suited for the al fresco dining with the view on the balcony.
The Sabayon at EQ Experience
Sabayon is technically an old new comer to the fine dining scene, with its overall experience delivering what one would expect of the industry veterans. The dishes were interesting enough to warrant a return, with a stunning view overlooking the city at night. The best element is that you have a choice of having the 3 or 5 course, while light diners may choose to have a slightly fine casual experience at the balcony.
Sabayon at EQ
Level 51, EQ,
Jalan Sultan Ismail,
50250 Kuala Lumpur.
+603 2789 7777
Mondays to Sundays, 12.00 pm to 2.30 pm; 5.00 pm to 12.00 am
| PHOTOGRAHY: NICHOLAS NG & EQ | WEBSITE: SABAYON AT EQ |