Shaari (shari, 酢飯), the vinegared rice used in sushi, often plays a behind-the-scenes role while the spotlight shines on the fish and other ingredients. However, it’s the humble shaari that binds the flavours and textures together, creating that quintessential sushi experience. Let’s dive into the story of shaari, drawing insights from renowned sushi masters and exploring its cultural origins, the variety of vinegars used, and modern innovations.
Sushi (寿司) originally began as a method of preserving fish in fermented rice, known as narezushi (熟れ寿司), which dates back to the Yayoi period (circa 300 BC to 300 AD). The fish was fermented for several months, and the rice was discarded. Over time, the fermentation period shortened, and people began eating the rice with the fish. While shaari is referred to the vinegared rice used to make sushi, “neta” (ネタ) refers to the toppings or ingredients placed on top of the sushi rice. It is the part of sushi that garners the most attention and variety, ranging from fish and seafood to vegetables, eggs, and even sometimes meat.
In the Edo period (1603-1868), a chef named Hanaya Yohei is credited with creating modern sushi, known as nigirizushi (握り寿司) using fresh fish and seasoned rice, making it possible to serve sushi quickly. This new style of sushi, made with vinegared rice instead of fermented, became incredibly popular in Edo (modern-day Tokyo).
The term “Edomae” (江戸前) literally means “in front of Edo,” referring to the Tokyo Bay area. In those days, the waters of the bay were teeming with a variety of seafood, where this abundance allowed sushi chefs to use the freshest local ingredients, with classic examples including tuna (maguro, 鮪) and sea bream (tai, 鯛).
Kansai-style (関西風), originating from the Osaka region, features pressed sushi known as oshizushi (押し寿司) or hakozushi (箱寿司), where ingredients are layered and pressed into compact, rectangular pieces, often using cooked or marinated fish such as sea eel (anago, 穴子), shrimp (ebi, 海老) and sweet Japanese omelette (tamagoyaki, 卵).
Hokkaido-style (北海道風) from Japan’s northernmost island highlights the region’s rich seafood offerings, including high-quality sea urchin (uni, ウニ), salmon roe (ikura, イクラ), and crab (kani, カニ), sourced from its cold waters.
In contrast, Kyushu-style (九州風) from southern Japan emphasises marinated or pickled ingredients, reflecting the warmer climate’s preservation needs, and often incorporates local delicacies like mackerel (saba, 鯖) and spicy cod roe (karashi mentaiko, 辛子明太子).
Shaari starts with short-grain Japanese rice, prized for its stickiness and subtle sweetness. Varieties like Koshihikari (越光) and Sasanishiki (ササニシキ) are top choices as the rice is meticulously polished to remove the bran, ensuring a smooth texture. But the real magic happens during the seasoning process, which is a culinary tightrope walk.
Seasoning shaari involves a delicate balance of rice vinegar, sugar, and salt. This blend is often a closely guarded secret, passed down through generations of sushi chefs. Get the ratios wrong, and the rice can overpower the fish or taste insipid. It’s this precision that elevates good sushi to greatness.
Professional chefs master the art of cooking and cooling the rice to the perfect temperature before seasoning it to perfection. The process of mixing shaari start with a wooden paddle called a shamoji (杓文字) and a special tub known as a hangiri (半切), where the rice is carefully sliced and fanned. This ensures an even seasoning and a glossy finish without turning the rice into mush, a graceful dance, steeped in tradition.
Next time a piece of nigiri or a maki roll is enjoyed, take a moment to appreciate the shaari. It’s not merely rice; it’s the foundation of sushi. Shaari provides the perfect balance, the glue that holds everything together. Sushi isn’t just about the fish; it’s about the harmonious blend of every element, with shaari playing a pivotal role.
Rice vinegar (komezu, 米酢) is the traditional choice for seasoning sushi rice. It’s mild and slightly sweet, enhancing the flavour of the rice without overwhelming the fish. However, other types of vinegar are also used to create unique flavours. For example, red vinegar (akazu, 赤酢), made from sake lees, has a richer and deeper flavour, and is sometimes used by high-end sushi chefs to add complexity to the rice. Black vinegar (kurozu, 黒酢), known for its robust and earthy flavour, can also be used, offering a different taste profile.
“The vinegar in the rice should accentuate the umami of the fish, not overpower it.”
— Yoshihiro Murata of three-Michelin starred Kikunoi in Kyoto.
For those seeking the best sushi experiences in Kuala Lumpur, the city boasts a selection of top-notch sushi restaurants with over 1,000 Japanese restaurants across Malaysia. Sushi Taka, helmed by Chef Daichi Yazawa, offers an exquisite omakase experience, showcasing his skill and dedication to traditional Edomae sushi. Sushi Masa, led by Chef Hisaki Yoshinaga, is celebrated for its perfect balance of flavours and textures, delivering a memorable luxurious but classic dining experience.
Sushi Hibiki, under the guidance of Chef Makoto Saito, is known for its meticulous attention to detail and the quality of its ingredients. Oribe, with Chef Naoya Kawasaki at the helm, impresses diners with its artistic presentation and innovative approach to sushi. Sushi Ori, crafted by Chef Ori Takahashi, with its creative and traditional style, while Sushi Azabu, led by Chef Masaki Arakawa, brings the authentic taste of Edomae-style sushi to Kuala Lumpur.
For a modern twist, Chipta11A, led by Chef Jack Weldie, offers a creative, non-traditional sushi experience that departs from traditional sushi norms using tamarind in their shaari, standing out for its innovative use of ingredients and unique flavour combinations. The now defunct Edju Omakase by Eddie Ng, would use Chinese black vinegar resulting in uniqueness on the palate.
These modern twists on traditional shaari demonstrate the dynamic nature of sushi. While the foundations remain the same, the possibilities for innovation are endless. So, while the finest cuts of fish might steal the show, remember that even they would be lost without their trusty companion, shaari. Sushi is a symphony where every element must be in perfect harmony, and the rice deserves its standing ovation. If anyone ever suggests otherwise, just smile and pass the soy sauce.
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