High above Bangkok, on the 25th floor of Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok, TAAN redefines Thai cuisine through its deep alliances with farmers, fishermen, and artisans. Since opening in 2018, this restaurant has become a platform that honours underappreciated producers and the culinary heritage they uphold. We speak to Executive Chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp on how he nurtures an ethos rooted in sustainability and respect for local traditions, yet is always open to new ideas.
He describes his motivation in clear terms, “My journey began with an appreciation for sustainability and a desire to champion the underdogs. Small-scale farmers often have a genuine passion and intention behind their work, and I find it inspiring to understand their processes and unlock the potential of their ingredients.” This approach influences every step of TAAN’s menu creation, ensuring that guests encounter dishes shaped by true collaboration.
Reimagining Thai Cuisine
Thoughtful relationships with producers guide TAAN’s commitment to hyper-local sourcing. Chef Thep explains how these partnerships drive creativity, “We are constantly on the lookout for unique new produce and to understand the different characteristics of each ingredient. For instance, we collaborate closely with Khun Amnart from Tan Khun Farms, who raises chickens organically without antibiotics, instead using innovative feed like chillies to enhance quality.” Insights like these underpin the restaurant’s efforts to connect diners with the origins of their food.
Rather than remain within familiar definitions of “authentic” cooking, the team at TAAN challenges tradition by adapting and refining age-old recipes. Chef Thep views Thai cuisine as an ongoing dialogue “Authentic Thai food is not a static concept but an ever-evolving reflection of centuries of influences, and there is no single ‘correct’ version.” This perspective encourages diners to embrace new interpretations that still respect the essence of Thai culinary culture.
Elevating Overlooked Ingredients
Some of TAAN’s most intriguing dishes come from ingredients that rarely appear in fine dining. Blackchin tilapia, often seen as an invasive species, finds a place on the menu thanks to the kitchen’s creative handling of its flavour and texture. Chef Thep addresses this choice directly, “To me, the issue isn’t with the fish, but with how it is perceived. Blackchin tilapia is often viewed as invasive, but it can be transformed into a delicious and environmentally responsible dish.” This focus on unexpected produce underscores TAAN’s willingness to question conventions.
Wonder Sushi and Loei Gnocchi, two dishes he mentions when describing TAAN’s approach, demonstrate how tradition and innovation can merge. The first blends watermelon with sun dried sea bass and magnolia-infused rice sorbet, pulling inspiration from a Thai summer snack while borrowing Japanese sushi elements. The second spotlights blackchin tilapia, challenging any hesitations diners may have about an “alien fish.” Neither dish abandons Thai identity; both illustrate how creativity can spark curiosity without forsaking the country’s culinary roots.
Cultivating Meaningful Connections
TAAN relies on sustained interaction with local producers. “Working with small producers means adapting to their realities. They often have limited suppliers or seasonal constraints. Even though it is the same variety of rice, each field might yield rice with different properties. This means that as a restaurant, we need to be agile and adjust to these nuances”, Chef Thep describes the process. This flexibility demands significant effort but ensures an honest, transparent supply chain that celebrates regional diversity.
The restaurant shares these stories with diners. Service staff explain the background of each dish, and producers sometimes visit TAAN to speak about their methods. “Our service team shares these stories with diners, helping create a deeper connection to the food. We also invite producers to TAAN, where they interact directly with guests and staff, offering insights into their processes”, Chef Thep notes. Such engagement transforms a meal into a conversation about local environments, ethical farming, and culinary heritage.
Balancing Heritage and Innovation
Experimentation drives progress at TAAN, yet the kitchen never loses sight of Thai cooking’s rich traditions. Chef Thep clarifies how he negotiates that balance, “For me, ‘authentic’ Thai food is ever-changing, influenced by centuries of adaptation. We preserve the spirit of traditional dishes while presenting them in a new format. We refine and elevate simple elements, staying true to their roots while exploring innovative possibilities.” Junior staff are also encouraged to propose new concepts, ensuring that a variety of voices helps shape the final menu.
Diners experience this philosophy in plates that reference older styles of cooking without confining them to rigid frameworks. Wonder Sushi draws on the flavours of a Thai summer snack, yet harnesses a sorbet technique to create textural contrast. Loei Gnocchi pairs an invasive fish with unfamiliar accompaniments, confirming that local ingredients deserve recognition if treated with skill and respect.
Encouraging Diners to Explore
Chef Thep avoids confronting guests with dishes that feel alien. He instead offers reworked versions of familiar formats, bridging the gap between adventurous flavours and accessible presentations. “I’m always looking for ways to connect unfamiliar ingredients with new diners in a way that feels approachable,” he says, acknowledging that adventurous ideas work best when diners can relate to at least one element in the dish. This approach encourages curiosity rather than intimidation.
TAAN’s perspective resonates beyond individual meals, shining a light on broader trends in Thai gastronomy. The chef sees room for local ingredients to enter the fine-dining mainstream, provided chefs refine and elevate them. “As the quality of locally sourced products improves and chefs refine their techniques, the possibilities for Thai cuisine expand significantly. This evolution reflects not just in the dishes we create but also in how Thai food is perceived globally.” Diners who visit TAAN witness these possibilities first-hand.
Strengthening a Culture of Sustainability
Close ties with producers foster an awareness of environmental challenges. The decision to use blackchin tilapia stems from both flavour potential and ecological responsibility. Chef Thep believes that chefs and restaurants can highlight sustainability by embracing alternative ingredients. Even popular staples like rice require adaptation because each farm’s harvest differs based on soil conditions and techniques. Working with small producers is not the easiest path, but TAAN remains committed to it as a pillar of authenticity and respect.
Sustainability also appears in the way TAAN trains its team. Each dish undergoes multiple tests, refining concepts until they fit the restaurant’s vision. That process includes input from junior staff, which builds a stronger collective understanding of how to work with local produce. Chef Thep highlights the importance of experimentation, “Our process involves a lot of trial and refinement. Each dish typically goes through two or three iterations before reaching our diners. We encourage our junior staff to experiment, fostering creativity and a deeper understanding of our ingredients.”
Inviting Evolving Interpretations
By blending tradition and experimentation, TAAN shows how Thai cuisine can move forward while remaining firmly rooted. Chef Thep’s words underline that Thai food has always evolved and absorbed outside influences. His team preserves historical flavours but updates them with modern techniques, presenting diners with familiar yet stimulating creations. Guests leave with a broader view of what Thai cooking can become when guided by a dedication to local resources, small-scale producers, and thoughtful execution.
There is also a hope that TAAN’s influence will ripple throughout Bangkok’s dining scene and beyond. “As more chefs and diners embrace these producers, their work will gain the recognition it deserves, ultimately benefiting the industry as a whole.” When overlooked ingredients become prized, and under-the-radar farmers are lauded for their artistry, the entire community gains vitality. TAAN’s role as both a restaurant and a storyteller ensures that this recognition continues to grow.
Looking Ahead
Sweeping city views frame every meal at TAAN, but the restaurant’s true focus rests on the land and water from which its ingredients come. The dining space, with warm textures and understated design, encapsulates its culinary spirit: respectful of traditions yet open to transformation. Planned expansions, including a lounge where guests can relax with cocktails or small bites, confirm TAAN’s desire to share hyper-local creativity in every facet of the experience.
Chef Thep envisions a future where fine dining in Thailand celebrates playfulness, accessibility, and local communities. He aims to continue bridging the distance between farmers and diners, ensuring that each menu iteration honours fresh perspectives. “The future of TAAN lies in redefining fine dining to make it more playful, accessible, and rooted in genuine connections. We aim to continue evolving guest experiences while maintaining our commitment to sustainability and local sourcing.” This outlook supports the restaurant’s broader mission: to blend responsibility and innovation, weaving them into a cuisine that pays tribute to Thailand’s culinary past while charting a bright path forward.
| WEBSITE: TAAN BANGKOK |